HBA spotlights naturals

02 April 2007 00:00  [Source: ICB Americas]

NATURAL AND cosmeceutical ingredients are at the top of the list for cosmetic formulators who attended this year's HBA (Health and Beauty America) midyear technical conference recently held in New York.

In the naturals segment, Datamonitor estimates last year's global market for natural personal care products, including narrow, broad and organic definitions, at $17bn.

The broad natural personal care market has less stringent classification, with products containing typically less than 10% natural ingredients, according to Datamonitor. The organic sector meanwhile, is officially regulated.

"The US is by far the largest market overall at $7.7bn followed by Europe at $7.4bn," says Julia McNamara, vice president of marketing at Datamonitor's consumer markets. "The US and Europe are set to reach over $20bn, with the US forecasted to exceed $12bn by 2011."

The US also leads the broad natural personal care market with aggregate growth of 5-10% in 2001-2006, and 8.5-9% projected in 2006-2011. In organic personal care, the US is projected to have the biggest growth rate of 9-10% from 2006 to 2011.

Digesting beauty trend

Mushrooms, olive oil, and certain fruits and vegetables are now being offered as new sources of beauty ingredients.

Demand for oral beauty supplements such as vitamins and antioxidants, meanwhile, is on the rise, says Paul Flowerman, president of PL Thomas & Co.

"According to ongoing studies, consuming antioxidant-rich supplements can help protect the skin and provide a weapon in the battle against aging," says Flowerman. "Industry reports state that the global nutricosmetics market was valued at $1bn and is set to double over the next five-year period. The market has already grown by 50% between 2002 and 2006."

In several studies, lycopene, astaxanthin, pycnogenol, alpha-lipoic acid and anthocyanins (from pomegranates) are said to have shown skin protection benefits by inhibiting cellular and DNA damage caused by excess free radicals.

"Studies also showed that the nutrients can absorb harmful ultraviolet rays as well as nourish and strengthen collagen and elastin bonds in the skin," says Flowerman. He points out several sun care supplement products being marketed in Europe that use nutrients such as lycopene, lutein and beta-carotene.

"Among dietary supplements sold in France in pharmacies and drugstores, sun products are at the top six last year," he adds.

digging for plant power

The trend toward the use ofbotanicals and herbs as func-tional cosmetic actives is grow-ing strongly, according to Mela-nie Smith, product development director for Mary Kay.

"Formulating with botanicals gives cosmetic products a competitive advantage, good consumer perception, and higher marketability by providing product benefits and cosmeceutical claims," says Smith. "However, they also pose challenges such as sources and availability, extraction costs, quality consistency, safety, and other formulation challenges such as color, odor, and shelf life."

Monk's pepper berries are now being sourced for mood-enhancing phyto-endorphins, which is said to play an important role in the vitality and appearance of the skin, according to Tri-K's director of new technologies, Art Georgalas.

Bio-Botanica's Ellen Kamhi, meanwhile, cited current research being conducted on oregano oil, olive leaf and rosemary as cosmetic preservatives. "Several proprietary blends have been shown to inhibit a variety of microbes and are effective at a lower concentration than certain commonly used synthetic preservatives," she adds.