Raw Materials Suppliers Roll Out New Products for Cosmetics and Personal Care

13 May 2002 00:00  [Source: ICB Americas]

Better is ultimately never good enough in the cosmetics and personal care market, where consumers take last year's advances for granted and expect new improvements in each new year. Continued demand for convenience has led to new forms of product delivery. Interest in more natural solutions to age-old problems has led to the incorporation of natural products, including nutraceuticals. A parallel development is a trend toward mildness, which is itself one aspect of increasing demand for anti-aging products, driven by the baby boomers. Cognis, Ajinomoto, Ondeo Nalco, International Specialty Products, Rohm and Haas, Ineos Silicas, Atofina, Croda, and OSi Specialties are all drawing on their particular expertise to ride these trends with new product launches.

Convenience and ease of application are being provided by a proliferation of wipes, both dry and wet, in baby care, sun care, cleansing, and even antiperspirants in Europe, notes Fred Hessel, business director, care chemicals with Cognis. Sprayable products have also experienced an increase in demand for skin and sun care applications.

In addition to convenience, consumers are looking for more natural products. In Europe particularly, there has been a movement towards non-oily and non-greasy formulations and away from mineral oil and petrolatum-based products to more upscale and elegant formulations. Some products even carry oil-free labels on them now. In 2001, bovine spongiform encephalopathy was an issue that caused consumers to shy away from animal-derived products. In 2002, many companies are planning to introduce natural vegetable-based ingredients for personal care applications.

Emphasis is placed today on both the aesthetics of the end products and wellness of hair, a trend that resulted in the growth of products containing beads, pearlescent agents and opacifiers, pure herbal products and naturally derived products for hair care applications, says Henk deJonge, market manager, hair, body and oral care with Cognis.

Others point to the demand for mildness and its key in driving buying decisions among consumers. Malena Higuera, director, cosmetics and toiletries at Ajinomoto's specialty chemicals division, notes that alpha-hydroxy acids are still strong but indicates there is a move toward beta-hydroxy acids, polyhydroxy acids, and enzymatics for skin clarification and fine line and wrinkle removal. She also points to skin whitening as a growing segment.

Also important in hair and skin cleansing is the reduction in the use of alkyl sulfate/alkyl ether sulfate surfactants, says Ajinomoto's Ms. Higuera. These materials are being replaced in part by more so-called natural surfactants, such as sodium acyl glutamates, sodium acyl alaninates, and the alkyl glucosides. Another significant area is in the removal of DEA-containing materials. Cocamide DEA, once a mainstay in cleansing formulations, is now being eliminated. She expects that triethanolamine-containing surfactants, such as triethanolamine-lauryl sulfate, will follow as will the monoethanolamides.

The most predominant trend noted by Ondeo Nalco is the increase in the use of products that help minimize the aging process, notes Patrick Marek, business manager, personal care marketing with Ondeo Nalco. One of the largest increases is the purchase of hair coloring products meant to cover gray hair or products that prevent hair loss. "With the large population of baby boomers in the over 40 age bracket, the trend has continued to increase from 2001 and should continue to do so through 2002 and beyond," adds Mr. Marek.

The concern is not limited to hair care. "Overall, we see the baby boomer generation willing to spend heavily to slow the aging process. Also, concerns about health and avoidance of damage to the skin from sun exposure continue to increase," concurs Joan Hoffmeier, global marketing manager, personal care, for Rohm and Haas Company.

For younger consumers, International Specialty Products' (ISP) Steve Hinden, vice president, marketing and product development, personal care, says there is strong demand for colorants in the younger set, which is looking for bold, vibrant hair color. As a result of the increase in demand for hair colorants, ISP has also noted a positive reaction to shampoos, conditioners and other products formulated for treating colored hair.

In sun care, legislation is pending in the US to limit SPF claims to 30 plus. While implementation of the legislation has been delayed for at least one year, product formulators are already moving in the direction to more moderate SPF values. In the UK, a leading formulator has introduced a new five star rating system that provides separate values for UVA and UVB protection.

Multi-functionality of personal care products is also a continuing trend, and a key way that formulators attempt to differentiate their products. "We see a trend toward offering more multi-functional products as a way to gain a marketing advantage through label and advertising claims," says Rohm and Haas's Ms. Hoffmeier. For example, cleansing wipes, which used to be based on a surfactant/alcohol system are now relying on a new lotion technology, which allows the product to provide conditioning as well as cleansing properties.

John Leake, marketing manager, Ineos Silicas has seen this effect with the significant growth of longer lasting make-up, which has placed a stronger performance requirement on make-up removers/daily facial cleansers. "Coupled with a consumer requirement to move to milder surfactants or lower levels of surfactants in the make-up removal/facial cleanser products, formulators are presented with a dilemma of how to improve cleansing performance when one of the key cleansing ingredients, the surfactant, may be less effective," he explains.

In hair care, ISP's Mr. Hinden notes that the increased emphasis on hair health, combined with the desire for more complex styling aids and the need to retain flexible hold while maintaining a soft feel are all contributing to the increased complexity of hair styling resins and other products.

Yet another trend impacting raw material suppliers to the cosmetics and personal care industry has been the upgrade of mass market skin care products. Large retailers, such as Walmart, now offer skin care products for $18 to $20, which means prestige lines are trickling down to the mass market/retail outlets. Many see Walmart as a major driving force for the industry. With such large volumes, mass marketers such as Walmart can place significant pressure on the entire supply chain.

Companies Roll

Out New Products

In order to meet the market demand for very mild surfactants, Ajinomoto is expanding its line of amino acid-based surfactants using a variety of amino acids and optimizing the quality of its existing products, Amisofts and Amilites. The company has also introduced Eldew SL-205, an amino acid-based emollient that can solubilize active ingredients, colors, and sunscreens.

Atofina focused on two product groups at In-Cosmetics held last month. Orgasol 4000 Exd Nat Cos is a nylon ultra-fine powder with a very high porosity and is designed to aid in optimum impregnation of active agents, such as vitamins, silicones and sun blocks. The latest grade also enhances the compaction of powders while imparting outstanding softness to cosmetics. Currently Atofina is working on the particles size and shape in order to achieve an optimal feel, especially in skin care products but also in toiletries and color cosmetics.

The second product, Amphoram U is a mild co-surfactant introduced by CECA, one of Atofina's business units. The product is an undecylenamido propyl betaine that is used in hair, skin and personal care applications. It exhibits a synergistic effect with most major preservatives and biocides and is extremely mild. The product is used at 3 to 10 percent in liquid formulations, is compatible with nonionic, anionic and cationic surfactants and provides transparent products.

Cognis has introduced several new products, which include Emulgade CM, that provides very small size particle emulsions used in sprayable sunscreen, other skin care formulas, and anti-perspirant roll-ons.

Also in the skin care area, Cognis offers Cetiol OE and Cetiol CC, the later of which belong to a carbonate-based class of emollients for use in oil-free products. The company has also introduced a whole line of vegetable based proteins and other products to meet the demand for naturally derived (but non-animal based) products.

In February, 2001, Cognis developed an exclusive marketing arrangements with Aarhus Oliefabrik A/S in Denmark, which has a strategic department specializing in the manufacture of glycerides and derivatives, exotic vegetable oils and fats which are mainly used in skin care and surfactant applications. The agreement covers both the worldwide distribution by Cognis of selected Aarhus raw materials for the cosmetics industry, and the new and further development of these materials. Cognis will be taking over the exclusive distribution of the Aarhus range from the previous distributors under its established trade name Cegesoft.

Cognis's Nutrition and Health group recently invested in a phytosterols manufacturing facility in France that started up in January 2002 with a capacity of 1,600 metric tons per year. Cognis hopes to increase sales of phytolsterols to the cosmetics/personal care market. Currently there are a couple of facial wash products containing sterols.

The skin care unit at Cognis also launched two new bioactive ingredients for skin and hair care in July 2001. Gluadin Soy consists of a hydrolyzed soybean protein which is also suitable for intensive skin care, such as firming, regenerating and anti-wrinkle products.

Nutrilan Milk is a milk protein hydroly-sate-derived from casein, an important protein contained in milk, which can be used in both skin and hair care products. The dominant amino acids in casein are glutamic acid and proline. This amino acid combination is very similar to the natural moisturizing factor in skin and, moreover, makes the product thermally stable. The hydrolysate also forms a protective film around each single hair and thus revitalizes its natural protective layer.

Also in July, 2001, Cognis subsidiary Laboratoires S'robiologiques, a specialist in botanical extracts and biotechnological ingredients, introduced Climaline, a new product line designed to address the negative effects of the environment on skin and hair, especially cold temperatures. Three products specifically target the moisturizing and care of the skin while two focus on the elasticity and protection of hair. The actives in the Climaline concept can be processed alone or in versatile combinations to produce a broad spectrum of skin and hair care products. Among the possible applications are high quality care creams and anti-aging products, as well as lip care, hair treatments, sunscreens, or series for fitness enthusiasts.

Recently Cognis introduced Lamesoft TM, a new biodegradable opacifier with conditioning effects for both skin and hair. The company has also developed in 2002 a second generation of alkyl polyglucosides, APG carboxylates and disodium cocoyl glutamate, an amino acid-based surfactant, both of which offer have increased mildness, provide better foam and give noticeable skin feel immediately after application.

In May, 2001, Cognis's Nutrition and Health group acquired Laboratorios Dr. Vinyals SA, an herbal extract company based in Spain. The company is hoping to leverage these products in personal care applications as well as in nutraceuticals.

Croda has introduced six new products over recent months. These include Crodafos CS20 Acid (cetearyl alcohol and Ceteth-20 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate), a primary emulsifier specifically designed to provide viscosity control for the production of pourable-type emulsions with high active loads and medium to low viscosity products such as liquid foundation, body sprays and milks.

Hydrosolanum (hydrolyzed vegetable protein) from Croda is a low molecular weight protein able to penetrate both the stratum corneum and cuticle where it can modify the mechanical properties of hair and skin and bind water from within to provide improved moisturization. The product may help control frizz and lessen the incidence of split ends, has very low color and odor, and is recommended for use in shampoos and conditioners, hair treatment products, styling aids, perms and relaxers, moisturizing creams and lotions, anti-aging skin care and shower gels/bath foams.

Cortisone GSP-T (glycerine, water, alcohol, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, tocopherol, Vitis Vinifera (grape seed extract)) is a natural blend of grape seed procyanidins and tocopherols and is the first cosmetic ingredient to combine oil and water-soluble antioxidants, says the company. The product protects against reactive oxygen species (ROS) and lipid peroxidation. Crodasome GSP-T is manufactured by Mibelle AG Biochemistry, Switzerland, and distributed by Croda.

Crodasorb UV-HPP (polyquaternium-59, butylene glycol) is a 65 percent active polyester polyquaternized UV absorber for hair. By preventing UV-B damage, this product protects against protein degradation and preserves the hair's tensile strength, hydrophobicity, combing properties, and natural color and is recommended for use in outdoor-type styling products.

Crodazosoft DBQ (quaternium-91, cetrimonium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol) is an imidazoline conditioning quat and softening agent for hair. This product possesses proven softening effects, prevents combing damage to the cuticle, provides superior slip and wet combing and promotes delivery of lipophilic actives.

Venuceane (thermus ferment and glycerine) is a biotechnology-based product from Sederma, a French skin care company bought by Croda several years ago. The product is a heat-activated antioxidant and smart ingredient that provides enhanced detoxifying activity with increasing temperature. Venuceane inhibits ROS and repairs and protects against damage caused by UV by decreasing peroxidation and reducing cell membrane damage. Sederma recommends its use in protective creams and lotions, anti-aging creams, face and body care formulations and products for sensitive skin.

Ineos Silicas has had two recent key product introductions. In 2001, the company launched Neosil CBT50, a mild sensory silica cleansing particle aimed ideally at facial cleanser products, but potentially other cleansing products as well. The product is designed to deliver very good skin cleansing but with a mild tingling sensory effect.

In March 2002, Ineos introduced Neosil CL2000, a non-sensory silica cleansing particle which can be used in all cleansing type applications for both face and body. In addition, it has the potential to be used in facial wipe-type formats.

ISP has a very active R&D program in both the skin care and hair care areas. The company is currently expanding its skin care product range including new emollients, lamellar gels, and preservative systems, and is also developing alliances in the bioactives and delivery systems areas. In hair care, ISP has added a number of new products designed for different approaches to hair conditioning and ex-panded some of its polymer technologies. The company has also expanded its Si-Tec line of silicone offerings.

In December 2001, ISP introduced Styleze 1020, polyquaternium-55, a water-based styling resin characterized by firm hold, high humidity resistance and high flexibility. It has conditioning benefits, provides thermal protection from curling irons and is cold processable into styling lotions, mousses, gels, conditioners and shampoos. The company says is is unique in the marketplace because it provides flexibility and longevity of hold while still feeling soft on the hand.

For skin care, ISP has launched in 2002 its Allianz OPT water-resistant polymer for suncare formulations. Allianz OPT (acrylates C12-22 alkyl methacrylate copolymer) provides water resistance by thickening the oil phase and is used for low viscosity sprayable oil-in-water emulsions and nonionic emulsification system.

ISP has also expanded its preservative offerings with Integra CG-20, a non-formaldehyde preservative, especially useful for rinse-off applications. In addition, the company has also purchased Degussa's biocides business and is investigating potential applications for these industrial products in the personal care area.

Ondeo Nalco introduced its Fixomer A-30 and Fixomer N-28 (methacrylic acid/ sodium acrylamido/methyl propane sulfonate copolymer) styling polymers late in 2001. Fixomer A-30 is a proprietary anionic copolymer that provides strong hair hold under conditions of high humidity. Fixomer N-28 is a proprietary, non-animal tested anionic copolymer that also provides strong hair hold under conditions of high humidity. Both products can be used in gels, mousses, waxes, creams and glazes. Ondeo Nalco developed these products to meet customer demands for alternative solutions to sprays and aerosols that retain the same benefits of these product forms.

Merguard X-18 (methyl-dibromo glutaronitrile, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol and dipropylene glycol) is an add-on to Ondeo Nalco's current line of preservatives. It is a patented technology that will reduce the overall consumption of preservatives in hair and skin care products and cosmetics.

OSI Specialties, a Crompton business, introduced two key products recently. Silsoft A-553 conditioning agent is a high molecular functionalized dimethicone that is used in hair conditioning, especially in clear shampoos. Silsoft A-454 Color Retaining Conditioning Agent is a high molecular weight functionalized dimethicone that provides hair with wet compatibility, a silky feel and the benefit of diminished color loss to dyed hair.

Rhodia has focused on innovative products for enhanced delivery and sensorial benefits in 2001 and is continuing these efforts in 2002. Rhodia's key product introductions include Mirasun, what the company says it is the first totally transparent anti-UV sunscreen, and new Jaguar products (cationic guar products) that offer high transparency and conditioning, and lamellar blends and performance concentrates.

Rohm and Haas has introduced Neolone 950 bactericide (methylisothiazolinone) as a complement to its exiting Kathon CG product. Neolone 950 provides compatibility with avobenzone, a key sun care active, and with zinc pyrithione-based antidandruff shampoos.

Separately, Rohm and Haas has intro-duced its Acusol opacifiers. Acusol OP301, Acusol OP302P and Acusol OP304 (styrene/acrylates copolymer) and Acusol OP303P (styrene/acrylamide copolymer) are styrene acrylates that impart a milky or lotionized appearance to many products. As the economy improves and consumers spend more on cosmetics and personal care products, BASF is expecting a boost in sales, particularly in the growing sun care market.

Sun protection products, ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB) absorbers are growing at an overall rate of 4 to 5 percent, with UVA absorbers expected to increase even faster, notes Scott Thomson, marketing manager, cosmetic ingredients at BASF Corp.

In November 2001, BASF scored a key victory when the US Patent Office confirmed BASF's patent rights for UV protecting beach, daily wear and cosmetic products formulated with Z-COTE and Z-COTE HP1 zinc oxide products. BASF obtained this patent, along with the acquisition of the Z-COTE technology in 1999 from sunSmart Inc. "This confirmation strengthens our resolve to actively pursue and enforce our global patent rights relating to the use of microfine zinc oxide in sun care products, skin moisturizers and makeup products," says Mr. Thomson.

Z-COTE microfine zinc oxide is a completely photostable, broad-spectrum UV absorber, enabling long-lasting UVA/UVB sun protection products to be formulated. This is of particular interest, as the longer wavelengths of UVA radiation are associated with premature aging and skin cancer. Another inorganic UV absorber by BASF, launched in 2001, is Uvinul TiO2, a UVB absorber, which is a combination of trimethoxycaprylsilane and titanium dioxide, which can be used to boost SPF formulations of organic UV filters. The company also makes organic sun care ingredients. Last year, BASF more than tripled production capacity for Uvinul MC 80 (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) with the commissioning of a new 4,500 metric ton-per-year plant in Ludwigshafen, Germany. The product, which is part of BASF's UVB and UVA absorbers, is used in both sunscreen and daily skin care products. BASF's strengthening of its sunscreen ingredients portfolio is consistent with the overall global trend of broad-spectrum UV protection across all segments.

Last month at In-Cosmetics, sponsored by Reed Exhibitions, BASF introduced a newly developed organic UVA filter, Uvinul A Plus, which the company notes is also completely photostable when exposed to the sun. The company says this new innovation, with a chemical name 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoic acid hexylester, offers many advantages over the current organic UVA filter avobenzone. Specifically, the company notes that Uvinul A Plus does not require a photostabilizer, is readily compatible with OMC and zinc oxide, and its use in combination with other common UV filters is part of BASF's broad patent portfolio regarding this technology. "Uvinul A Plus is a novel addition to our global UV filter portfolio and underlines BASF's commitment to bringing added-value innovations to the personal care market," remarks Mr. Thomson.

In the fourth quarter 2001, BASF launched D,L-Panthenol 50W, a 50-percent aqueous solution of panthenol (vitamin B5) used as a moisturizer in hair care products. Other recent BASF introductions in hair care include Luviquat Care, a conditioning polymer for shampoos, Luviset P.U.R., a resin for 55 percent VOC hairsprays and Luviflex Soft acrylates copolymer for hair mousses.

For skin care and cosmetic products, BASF has brought to the market Retinol 15D, a more stable form of retinol for all skin care applications; Luvigel EM, a liquid thickener for cosmetic formulations that reduces manufacturing time and Sicopearl Fantastico pigments, a new generation of color-variable luster pigments for use in lipstick, nail polish, liquid makeup, blushers, eyeshadows, mascaras, shampoos, body washes and sunscreens.

Vitamins and other actives in BASF's portfolio include vitamin E, retinol, and bisabolol, the active component found in chamomile. The company also offers a range of polymers, quaternary compounds, surfactants, colorants, silicones, emollients and neutralizers for use in the hair, skin, sun and oral care markets.

BASF's cosmetics business is organized along market areas-hair care, skin care, sun care and oral care-to provide a customer-centric approach in technical service and product development. BASF's cosmetics business is part of the company's health and nutrition business, which accounts for roughly 18 percent of BASF Group sales. A key element in the health and nutrition segment is BASF's vitamins business, which was further strengthened by the acquisition of the vitamins business of Takeda Chemical Industries in 2000, which increased BASF's share in the global vitamins business to roughly 30 percent.

BASF is proceeding with a previously announced plan to invest  600 million ($540 million) to fortify its position in the vitamins market. BASF is completing a  100 million expansion of its vitamin E and its precursors at its Ludwigshafen site, which is scheduled to be completed this year. The expansion will raise the plant's production volume to 20,000 metric tons per year.

The expansion is coincident with BASF's move to phase out vitamin E production at its plant in Wyandotte, Mich., which was completed last year. Vitamin E oil production was transitioned to the Ludwigshafen site after the closure of the Wyandotte plant.

BASF is also constructing a vitamin B2 plant in Gunsan, Korea with capacity of 3,000 metric tons and is building world-scale plants for vitamins C and B6 as well as calcium panthothenate.-Patricia Van Arnum

ICIS Copyright © Reed Business Information 2009

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