Cosmetic suppliers say naturals still hot

As mentioned last week, the green blogger attended this year’s annual New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Suppliers’ Dayin New Jersey, and based on interviews that I had with several chemicalcompanies, one trend that continues to be big for cosmetic and personalcare formulators is the use of natural-based/sustainable ingredientsand processing.

EvonikGoldschmidt’s Lauren Kjeldsen said that aside from anti-aging,natural-based products are big sellers in the cosmetic and personalcare market worldwide. The company launched at the show a newnatural-based thickening agent called Antil Soft SC, which the company said, can work as a foam booster even in polyethylene glycol (PEG)-free and sulfate-free skin and hair care product formulations.

The ingredient is said to be readily biodegradable and conforms to Ecocertstandards, which certifies whether an ingredient is really natural ororganic. Ecocert and organic certification was the buzzword at lastyear’s show but it seems to have died down a bit this year.

Evonik launched six new productsat the show and another ingredient that was highlighted (in terms of’greeness’) was its ethylene oxide (EO)-free liquid concentrate, Tego Wipe Lux, for cosmetic wet wipes. The emulsifier/emollient/phenoxyethanol is said to contain cottonseed oil.

BayerMaterialScience, which entered the cosmetics market last year, toutedits new ‘green-tinge’ polyurethane-based ingredients under the tradename Baycusan Cat the show. The ingredients, which are used as film formers andsensory aids, are said to be solvent-free and preservative-free.

Bayer also announced that it is building a new facilityin Germany specifically for the prodcution of Baycusan water-bornepolyurethane dispersions for cosmetics and medical applications. Eastman’s Jim McCaulley showcased the company’s green biocatalytic process,which allows chemists to work solvent-free and avoid any trace levelsof undesirable solvents in cosmetic products. Eastman said thesingle-step biocatalytic esterification reaction also saves cosmeticformulators time and energy, as well as reduces raw material use.

Eastman also highlighted its natural, non genetically modified rice bran oil extract Nutrilayer phytolipids for sun protection and skin care applications.

Silicone producers Gelest and Momentive Performance Materials noted increasing customer requests for more “green” ingredients, as well as if their ingredients are REACH-ready (Note: REACH is a European legislation where chemicals have to be registered and assessed for their risks).

Accordingto Gelest’ silicones business manager Matt Edison, the biggestchallenge in accommodating green ingredients demand is trying tounderstand their customers’ definition of green.

“Customerswould say that silicones are not green but these materials actuallystarted from sand,” said Edison. “What we’re doing is to have lots ofconversations with our customers in how they define green and natural,and then we modify our materials to fit their definition.”

Amidthe recession, Gelest said their business has been doing well withfirst quarter sales right on target. Aside from cosmetics and personalcare, the company supplies their raw materials to the pharmaceutical,medical devices, high-end microelectronics markets.

Momentive’sPaula Pinto said that they are working with Brazilian naturalingredients supplier Beraca in combining the chemistries of siliconeswith natural oils extracts. According to Pinto, cosmetic formulatorsfind it difficult to work with natural oils because they oxidize easilyand have a sensory feel (e.g. greasy??) that is not appealing.

The company will soon launch a new product called Velvetil Passion Fruit from the joint development. At the show, Momentive also launched two new ingredients: Silsoft A+ surfactant-free conditioning agent and SilForm flexible resin.

AkzoNobel‘sMaria Tolchinsky, meanwhile, noted their natural products portfoliothat includes xanthan gum, biobased polymers from starch, and soy-basedsurfactants. The company did not launch any new products at the showbut highlighted the newly combined cosmetic and personal careingredients portfolio of AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry and NationalStarch Personal Care businesses.

AkzoNobel acquired the National Starch business when it bought the European chemical company ICI last year.

Another recent acquisition transaction that was brought into my attention last week was HallStar’s buyout of Dow Hyperlast (a polymer plasticizers and additives business unit of Dow Chemical). HallStar also noted its new pthalate alternatives and green esters for use in polymer applications, both industrial and in cosmetics/personal care.

It’s new Hallgreenrenewable esters can be used in all types of biopolymers as well astraditional elastomers. At the show, the company, however, highlightedthe most its newest photostabilizer for cosmetic and personal careproducts, SolaStay S1.

Other companies that I was not able to interview (but they did send their press release), include Dow Corning, Symrise, and BASF.

addthis_pub = ‘greenchicgeek’;

Leave a Reply