A new antiwrinkle product from yeast

2005/05/08

In March, Laboratoires Serobiologiques, the active ingredients business of Cognis Care Chemicals, introduced an extract of brewer’s yeast (Saccharomyces cereviciae) for use in antiwrinkle products at PCIA Bangkok. Lab Séro has performed both in vitro and clinical tests demonstrating the benefits of the new ingredient, ProDEJine LS 9784.

Rich in proteins and peptides, ProDEJine combats wrinkles by protecting the so-called dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ) and strengthening the dermis. Just 75 nanometers thick, the DEJ is a membrane that separates the horny outer layer of the skin, or the epidermis, from the dermis, which includes blood vessels, lymph vessels, hair follicles, and sweat glands. Normal aging, which causes structural and functional changes in certain constituents of the DEJ, or exposure to UV radiation, which reduces elasticity, can damage this membrane, disturbing the cohesion of the two layers and producing wrinkles.

According to Lab Séro, ProDEJine improves the tone of the dermis by accelerating the synthesis of the proteins—elastin, collagen and glycosaminoclycans—that constitute it. ProDEJine also helps regenerate the DEJ by boosting the synthesis of perlecan, a proteoglycan that plays an important role in stabilizing the DEJ. Lab Séro researchers have found that perlecan synthesis slows with age.

In clinical tests, a cream containing 3 percent of ProDEJine had what Lab Séro characterizes as a “significant” antiwrinkle effect around the eyes after an eight-week course of treatment, and consumer testing resulted in improved tonicity, fewer wrinkles and firmer skin. In vitro tests conclusively demonstrated that ProDEJine improves perlecan synthesis, stimulates the synthesis of collagen, elastin and glycosaminoclycans in fibroblasts, and reinforces the extra-cellular matrix. Cognis’s US patent application, 2004/0028697, seems to cover the new product.